Saturday July 24th 2010
Tongor-Dzemeni is the most fascinating place I’ve been to in the world. Located about a 90 minute trotro ride south-west of Ho, it’s the largest open air market in the Volta region.
Walking around I felt like all I could see were stark contrasts. At times I was surrounded by white sand, petrified wood, and hundreds of people trading bulked supplies and livestock. The desiccated landscape had a brutal, industrial feel that make me feel as if I was walking through a conflict zone. Of course I wasn’t, but it somehow felt that way.
As you walk through the crowd of merchants towards toward Lake Volta, the scenery nearly does a 180. The sky is a perfect cerulean blue over the crystal clear body of fresh water. The shoreline is dotted with colourful wooden boats packed with everything and everyone, from oxen and sheep to bags of charcoal and market women. The market is a busy hub of commerce, and many individuals from Eastern region travel to participate. This involves making a 3 hour trek by boat across Lake Volta, which separates a portion of Volta and Eastern regions, to take part in the business. I can only imagine what an adventure the multi-hour journey in a cramped fishing boat with livestock, foodstuffs, and household goods would be.
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The Tongor-Dzemeni shoreline was alive and energetic. Wherever you looked, the vibrant colors of busy people doing business would meet your glaze. Women approached boats as they arrived at the shoreline, selling the tired passengers sachets of water, fried dough, or salted fish. There were scores of oxen, sheep, and goats tied to branches bidding their time before an inevitable slaughtering. Women selling beautiful material, used clothing, and handmade sandals had shops lined in the sand.
Being so close to sand and water reminded me of summers spent in Shediac, New Brunswick, which was for a moment mildly comforting. It was interesting to connect to Lake Volta based on my upbringing in Atlantic Canada, because culturally, the two locations are worlds apart.
Although I spent only a few hours getting to know this open air marketplace, I left knowing it was the most complex, dramatic, interesting place I’ve ever been.
Thanks for reading,
Erin
